How difficult would it be to increase the build plate size of a 0.2R1 from 120 to something larger like 200mm? I would be OK keeping the 120mm Z-axis print height
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If you can find the extrusions and rails then sure go for it. There may be a direct upgrade path to a Salad Fork or Micron (scaled down versions of the bigger Voron printers built with 1515 frames). Also of note, the Tiny-T is a scaled down Trident that uses 2020 frames.
I built a 180x180x250mm Trident as my secondary printer so it could use the Prusa Mini satin PEI. In hindsight, I wish I had made it a little shorter because it is a bit top-heavy at high accelerations. The bed size is perfect for most functional prints I need. Though I still plan to pick up a v0 at some point for the absurdly small footprint of the machine.
There’s https://github.com/gsl12/Tiny-M It’s 150mm³, and at the bottom there’s a mod for 190mm³
I found this and other cool looking mods on https://3dprintersforants.com/
(I am not related to the authors of these mods and website, and I don’t even own a voron… yet)
Interesting, although this looks like a significantly more expensive option than the deal I have for a V0. It would probably not be much cheaper (if at all) than a full size voron 2.4 or trident.
You’re going to be limited by the size of the extrusions. The v0 series uses 1515 extrusions where as all the other series uses 2020. For something like the v2 or trident, stretching Z is usually not a big deal, but stretching x or y past the stock design limits is generally not advisable.
What’s driving you to want a bigger V0 vs moving to a trident or v2?
I have a decent deal lined up on a V0, but the 120mm X and Y limit is a bit small for me so I’m not sure I could live with that in the long run
IMO v0s are a good second printer for someone with a larger printer or for someone who tends to print smaller items.
I have a 350mm 2.4 that I built because I wanted an upgrade in function/quality of life over my 200mm i3 clone and because I often ran into walls with the bed size because I tend to print larger items. That said, I still have the need to print smaller things. A large printer takes longer to heat soak than a smaller one, but if you print PLA/PETG this doesn’t really matter. A larger printer will also be limited in terms of acceleration, although it is way faster than my old i3 clone was.
I have a 230mm bed slinger already, but wanted something for ABS/ASA, which will probably be printing smaller parts mostly, so the 120mm is OK for that. I kind of just wanted to get rid of the other printer so I still only had one, but the 120mm build plate of the V0 makes that a bit hard.
For ABS/ASA, a V0 will likely be less frustrating. Larger ASA/ABS prints in a big printer invite warping for two main reasons. The first is just basic physics, larger parts have more material for tension to build in so they’ll be more likely to warp. The second is chamber temperature. By their nature, smaller printers will have smaller enclosures with less surface area, which means you’ll be able to get it toasty in there with less effort/modification. My 350 with just the filter installed and the stock 3mm acrylic panels struggles to get much above 40-45° C in my 65° F basement - even after soaking for two hours. I’m aiming to bump my chamber temp another 20° C to reduce/eliminate warping, but that’s likely going to require a decent amount of modification.
Hmm, that’s a good point I didn’t consider. I didn’t think the larger printers were struggling that much maintaining higher chamber temps.
It’s a lot of volume and a lot more area for loses. You’re only really heating the chamber with a what a 750 W heater to heat the build plate, by default you’re only getting natural convection and radiation to heat the interior, bed fans help and so does something that recirculates the air in the chamber. I generally don’t have issues with abs on my 350 mm v2 but larger, less substantial prints will have issues, I’m dropping some extra bed fans in when I do some upgrades this week which should help me get higher temps
